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Стекловолокно: способ получения, свойства, применение

 

Стекловолокно (стеклонить) — волокно или комплексная нить, формуемые из стекла. В такой форме стекло демонстрирует необычные для него свойства: не бьётся, не ломается и легко гнётся без разрушения. Это позволяет ткать из него стеклоткань, изготавливать гибкие световоды и применять во множестве других отраслей техники.

Стекловолокно имеет совершенно уникальное сочетание характеристик: повышенная прочность при сжатии и растяжении, термостойкость, негорючесть, низкая гигроскопичность, стойкость к химическому и биологическому воздействию. Из стекловолокна производят материалы с высокими тепло-, электроизоляционными и звукоизоляционными свойствами, и, конечно, механической прочностью.

Производство стекловолокна

Стекловолокно производят из лома стекла или из сырья, идентичного сырью для производства собственно стекла. Непрерывное стекловолокно формуют вытягиванием из расплавленной стекломассы через фильеры (число отверстий 200-4000) при помощи механических устройств, наматывая волокно на бобину. Диаметр волокна зависит от скорости вытягивания и диаметра фильеры. Технологический процесс может быть осуществлен в одну или в две стадии. В первом случае стекловолокно вытягивают из расплавленной стекломассы (непосредственно из стекловарочных печей), во втором используют предварительно полученные стеклянные шарики, штабики или эрклез (кусочки оплавленного стекла), которые плавят в стеклоплавильных печах или в стеклоплавильных аппаратах (сосудах) [1].

Исходный продукт, как и в других областях производства химических волокон получается в виде бесконечных элементарных волокон (филаментов), из которых далее в процессе переработки формируются или комплексные нити (диаметр филаментов 3—100 мкм (линейная плотность до 0,1 Текс)) и длиной в паковке 20 км и более (непрерывное стекловолокно), линейная плотность до 100 Текс, или в стеклянные ровинги (продукты линейной плотностью более 100 Текс). В этом случае, как правило, продукт перерабатывается в крученые нити (ровинги) на крутильно-размоточных машинах. Данные полуфабрикаты далее могут быть подвергнуты любым формам текстильной переработки в крученые изделия (нити сложного кручения, шнуры, шпагаты, канаты), текстильные полотна (ткани, нетканые материалы), сетки (тканые, специальной структуры).

Стекловолокна также могут выпускаться в дискретном (штапельном) виде. Штапельное стекловолокно формуют путём раздува струи расплавленного стекла паром, воздухом или горячими газами и др. методами.

Также исходный стеклянный ровинг может быть переработан путем резки, рубки или разрывного штапелирования в дискретные (штапельные) волокна со штапельной длиной 0,1 (микроволокно) — 50 см, титр волокна в данном случае как правило ниже, чем филаментных нитей и соответствует диаметру 0,1-20 мкм.

Стекловолокно: что же это такое?

Основная масса штапельных стекловолокон перерабатывается в нетканые материалы (кардные, иглопробивные, нитепрошивные, стеклохолст) по различным технологиям (кардочесание, преобразование прочеса, иглопробивание, нитепрошивание), стекловату, штапельную пряжу. По внешнему виду непрерывное стекловолокно напоминает нити натурального или искусственного шёлка, а штапельное — короткие волокна хлопка или шерсти [1].

Существует два типа технологий производства стекловолокна – одностадийный и двухстадийный.

Двухстадийный (наиболее распространенный) способ получения волокна включает в себя стадию подготовки шихты, варки стекла, выработки эрклеза, стеклошариков или штабиков, и стадию плавления эрклеза и стеклошариков в плавильном сосуде и вытягивания волокна.

Вторая стадия получения волокна состоит из следующих операций:

1) Подготовка и подача стеклянных шариков или эрклеза в стеклоплавильный сосуд.

2) Плавление шариков и эрклеза и подготовка стекломассы к формованию.

3) Заправка грубых волокон (при использовании штабиков).

4) Формование волокон.

5) Охлаждение волокон.

6) Нанесение на волокна замасливателя и соединение их в нить.

7) Раскладка и намотка нити.

При более прогрессивном одностадийном способе, волокна вытягивают из стекломассы, поступающей в выработку сразу из стекловаренной печи, питаемой шихтой, т.е. исключается промежуточная стадия выработки эрклеза и стеклянных шариков, при этом расход энергии сокращается практически в два раза. Вместо нее осуществляется операция распределения потока стекла в распределителе стеклоплавильной печи по отдельным фильерным питателям. Одностадийный метод получения стекловолокна используется на предприятиях ОАО «Сен-Гобен Ветротекс Стекловолокно», ОАО «Стеклонит», ООО «УРСА Серпухов» и ООО «Сен-Гобен Изовер Егорьевск».

Дополнительная обработка поверхности стекловолокна замасливателями приводит к ее гидрофобизации, снижению поверхностной энергии и электризуемости, снижению коэффициента трения от 0,7 до 0,3, увеличению прочности при растяжении на 20-30%.

Поверхностные свойства стекловолокна и капиллярная структура изделия определяют малую (0,2%) гигроскопичность для волокон и повышенную (0,3-4%) для тканей.

При производстве волокна для нетканых материалов операции соединения волокон в нить, раскладки или приема волокна или нити модернизируются в зависимости от вида и назначения материала.

Изделия из стекловолокна хуже работают при многократном истирании и изгибе, однако, стойкость к такому обращению повышается путем пропитки стекловолокна лаками и смолами. На 20-25% повышает прочность склеивание волокон в нити, а пропитка стекловолокнистых материалов лаками увеличивает прочность на 80-100%. При погружении стекловолокна в воду прочность снижается, но после высушивания восстанавливается полностью. При длительном действии деформирующего усилия у стекловолокон развивается упругое последствие. Влага также снижает сопротивление стекловолокна трению и изгибу. В сухом воздухе прочность стекловолокна резко повышается. Аналогично действию сухого воздуха смачивание стекловолокон неполярной углеводородной жидкостью – оно дает наибольшее значение прочности. При нагревании стекловолокна до 250-300°С его прочность сохраняется, в то время как органические волокна в условиях таких температур полностью разрушаются.

Значительное влияние на прочность стекловолокон, подвергнутых термической обработке, оказывает состав стекла. Волокна из натрийкальцийсиликатного и боратного стекол теряют свою прочность при термической обработке, начиная уже с 100-200°С. Волокна из кварцевого, кремнеземного и каолинового стекла теряют прочность на 50% при нагреве до 1000°С и последующем охлаждении.

Прочность стекловолокон в различных агрессивных средах (водяной пар высокого давления, горячая вода, щелочи, кислоты) также зависит от химического состава стекла. Самой высокой прочностью и стойкостью к горячей воде и пару обладают стекловолокна из бесщелочного алюмоборосиликатного и магнийалюмосиликатного стекла.

Физико-механические свойства стекловолокна

Механические свойства волокон представлены в таблицах 1.1, 1.2.

Таблица 1.1 — Механические свойства волокон [2]

Марка стекла	Плотность ρ, 10−3 кг/м3	Модуль упругости Е, ГПа	Средняя прочность на базе 10 мм, ГПа	Предельная деформация ε, %
Высокомодульное	2,58	4,20	4,8
ВМ-1	2,58	4,20	4,8
ВМП	2,46	4,20	4,8
УП-68	2,40	4,20	4,8
УП-73	2,56	2,00	3.6

 

Таблица Г.1.2 — Механические свойства стекловолокон [2]

Волокно	Плотность, 103·кг·м−3	Модуль растяжения, ГПа	Предел прочности при растяжении, ГПа
E-стекло	2,5	2,5
S-стекло	2,5	4,6
Кремнезем	2,5	5,9

 

Свойства высокомодульных волокон и однонаправленных эпоксидных композиционных материалов из них представлены в таблице 1.3.

Таблица1.3 — Свойства высокомодульных волокон и однонаправленных эпоксидных композиционных материалов [2]

Тип волокон	Марка волокна	Свойства волокон длиной 10 мм	Свойства композиционных материалов*
σв	E	σв	E	σв / (pg), км
ГПа	ГПа	ГПа	ГПа
Стеклянные	ВМ-1	3,82	102,9	2,01	69,1
ВМП	4,61	93,3	2,35	64,7
М-11	4,61	107,9	2,15	72,6
Борные	БН (сорт 2)	2,75	392,2	1,37	225,5
БН (сорт 1)	3,14	382,4	1,72	274,6
Борофил (США)	2,75	382,4	1,57	225,5
Органические	СВМ	2,75	117,7	1,47	58,5
Кевлар-49 (США)	2,75	130,4	1,37	80,4

^*Объемная доля наполнителя 60 %.

 

На предел прочности на растяжение стекол влияют микроскопические дефекты и царапины на поверхности, для конструктивных целей в основном применяют стекло с прочностью на растяжение 50 МПа.

Стекла имеют Модуль Юнга около 70 ГПа.

Применение стекловолокна

Основная область применения стекловолокна и стеклотекстильных материалов — использование в качестве армирующих элементов стеклопластиков и композитов. Также стеклоткани могут самостоятельно использоваться в качестве конструкционных и отделочных материалов. В этом случае они зачастую подвергаются той или иной форме отделки, главным образом — пропитке связующим (латекс, полиуретан, крахмалы, смолы и прочие полимеры) [2].

Стекловолокно выпускается в рулонах и в виде плит. Плиты из стекловолокна отличаются повышенной жесткостью и выдерживают высокие нагрузки. Для повышения показателей по ветрозащите плиты повышенной жесткости отделывают стекловойлоком.

В большинстве случаев стекловолокнистые плиты применяют для изоляции стен под штукатурные работы в вентиляционных фасадах зданий. На сегодняшний день несколько российский производителей плит повышенной жесткости получили сертификаты пожарной безопасности, которые позволяют использовать плиты из стекловолокна для проведения работ по увеличению огнестойкости металлических конструкций.

Из-за небольшой плотности и значительного количества, содержащегося в нем воздуха, изделия из стекловолокна хорошо сберегают тепло, сохраняя эту способность в течение длительного периода. Легкость, мягкость и эластичность стекловолокна позволяют использовать его для отделки неровных поверхностей, облицовывая конструкции любой формы, не зависимо от конфигурации. Стекловолокно также имеет способность сохранять форму, выдерживать старение и деформации.

Высокие звукоизоляционные свойства стекловолокна, химическая стойкость, отсутствие коррозионных агентов, не гигроскопичность и негорючесть расширяют сферу применения стекловолокнистых изделий.

Изделия из стекловолокна используются в системах наружного утепления, в вентилируемых фасадах зданий для теплоизоляции, для повышения огнестойкости несущих металлических конструкций гражданских и промышленных сооружений.

Стекловолокно входит в структуру гибкой черепицы в качестве несущей арматуры, обеспечивающей изделиям высокую механическую прочность, превосходящую требования международных стандартов качества. В процессе производства стекловолокно пропитывается битумом, чтобы не допустить присутствия влаги в готовом изделии.

Стекловолокно используется так же в стоматологии в составе керамической системы, особенностью которой является возможность химической связи волокон материала с композитами и пластмассами. В качестве арматуры используется стекловолокно, в качестве основы – неорганическая матрица.

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A broader understanding of composite materials and manufacturing methods, along with a little practice, can go a long way towards a more successful repair. 90010 90009 One point to get across prior to the heart of the article, we will use the terms composite repair and fiberglass repair interchangeably.This is because the techniques described will work for any fiberglass structure as well as many «advanced» composites made from Carbon Fiber and KEVLAR®. The overall concepts can to be applied to most composite materials. That means we will provide you with the fundamentals for a wide variety of repairs-from cosmetic gel coat repairs, to intermediate boat and auto body repairs-all the way through structural composite repairs. One caveat, however, is that for certain parts, specialized procedures-beyond those described by this article-may be necessary.Manufactures of highly technical or structural parts often publish detailed repair information specific to their parts. Our position is that the manufacturer’s instructions supersede all other information we provide and should be followed completely. Generally, manufacturer’s instructions are more specific and will not contradict the standard repair procedures outlined here. Caveat aside, when the fiberglass repair instructions in this article are well executed, strong repairs will result whether you are doing professional composites repair or diy fiberglass repairs.90010 90007 What should I know about fiberglass repair? 90008 90017 90009 There are a few fundamental principles that, once understood, allow most composite repairs to be completed successfully. Successful repairs allow you to extend the life of a part or mold, and save you the cost of replacing your composite part. Start by considering these three main principles of composite repair: 90010 90020 90021 90022 90023 Repairs differ from the original part 90024 — The first principle you must understand is that structural repairs are made by a different process than the original piece.When a composite part is initially manufactured, its resin cures bonding both chemically and physically with the reinforcement fabric resulting in a single unit, regardless of the number or orientation of the plies of fabric. This is referred to as the primary structure or bond, and it is the strongest type of bond that can exist within a composite part. 90009 Once a part is damaged, all repairs become secondary bonds attached to the original primary structure. This means all repairs are dependent upon physical bonding to the surface of the original primary structure (more on this later).For this reason, fiberglass repairs rely upon the adhesive quality of their resin for their strength-the strength of physical bond to the primary structure. Because of this, the resin used for the repair should be just as strong as the resin used to fabricate the part. In fact, resins with strong adhesive properties are sometimes used for repairs. 90010 90027 90022 90029 Increased surface area will increase the strength of composite repairs 90030 — Since fiberglass repairs depend upon surface adhesion (physical bonding) of the repair to the primary structure, increasing the surface area of ​​the bond line will increase the strength and durability of the bond- and by extension the part or repair.90009 Typically, the method employed to increase the surface area is taper or scarf sanding. This type of sanding means the area next to the damage is sanded away gradually, generally resulting in approximately ½-¾ of an inch of area per ply of composite laminate. Scarf sanding is usually done with a high-speed compressed-air power sander. Since most composite structures are fairly thin, this is a gentle process. The size of the taper, relative to the thickness of the laminate, is expressed as a ratio.Generally, the stronger or more critical the repair needs to be, the larger the ratio. Structural repairs usually require a gentler taper, with a ratio of 20: 1 up to 100: 1. 90010 90009 An alternative method employed to increase surface area is step sanding. This procedure defines the size of the inner repair, then removes surrounding materials at a width of ½ «per ply of the part, working towards the part surface. This results in a considerable growth of the repair surface and allows the fiber orientation to be evident in each step.90010 90009 Both methods are acceptable for the majority of composite repairs, though most consider scarfing to be easier, and it’s generally considered better. Stepping results in abrupt edges and butt joints in each repaired ply. It is also hard to step sand without cutting through, potentially damaging the underlying plies. 90010 90027 90022 90029 You should match your repair to the original part when possible 90030 — While your composite repair is different than your original part, it is recommended that you duplicate the thickness, density, and ply orientation of the original laminate when making your repair.This will help to maintain the functionality of the part. More is not always better-in this case, if your repair is thicker than the original part, it will almost certainly be stiffer, regardless of the material in use. Introducing various strengths within a part can cause unintended stress points, eventually leading to material fatigue or failure. It is better to carefully replace every ply that has been removed in the damaged area with an identical material, placed in the same orientation when possible.This ply-for-ply replacement approach guarantees the repaired structure can withstand the same loads as the original, and that it will disperse loads as intended. 90009 With these three fundamental principles in place: Repairs Differ from the Original Part, Increased Surface Area Increases Strength, and Repairs Should Match your Original Part; you have the foundation for understanding the sequences for repairs. As stated earlier, we are going to provide detailed steps for both structural fiberglass repairs and general cosmetic composite repairs.Keep in mind that these are general steps, and certain applications may call for additional steps or slight variances in approach. 90010 90027 90044 90007 Steps for Structural Composite Repairs 90008 90017 90009 Since a structural composite repair will typically be followed by a cosmetic repair, we will start with the instructions for the more severe damage. In this section we will answer the frequently asked questions of «How do I repair fiberglass?» and «What do I need to repair fiberglass».This will be broken down into 4 steps: 90010 90017 90022 Inspect and measure, identify and determine 90027 90022 Removing the damaged material and prepare the surface 90027 90022 Laminate the repair patch 90027 90022 Inspect the repair 90027 90020 90020 90007 Inspect and Measure, Identify, and Determine: 90008 90017 90003 How to inspect damaged composites 90005 90017 90009 There is four main categories for composite damage, your repair may involve one or all of these categories depending upon the severity of the impact or failure.The categories are as follows: 90010 90020 90020 90021 90022 90029 Tear 90030 — This damage results when the tensile strength of the composite part has been exceeded and the laminate has failed. This typically results in a fracture which extends completely through the substrate. 90027 90022 90029 Hole or Puncture 90030 — This damage is typically a result of an impact or cutting. Holes and punctures are sometimes limited to surfacing layers or skins.90027 90022 90029 Crushed Core 90030 — This damage applies only to composite parts containing sandwich core materials. It is typically the result of an impact which forces the composite skin of the laminate to deflect-but not fail-causing the sandwich core material to collapse. 90027 90022 90029 Delamination 90030 — This damage results in layers of the material separating from each other. It is typically caused by impact or stress between or across the layers.90027 90044 90003 How to measure the scope of your composite repair 90005 90017 90009 Once you understand what type of damage you have, we recommend that you use a contrasting marker to outline the boundary of the damage. This will help you to understand the scope and magnitude of the damage, as well as offer you the chance to fully inspect your part. Take note, however, that you should inspect the damage carefully as the problem area often extends farther than can be easily detected visually.One inspection tip we can offer is the coin tap test. By tapping a coin around the surrounding area you can quickly and easily generate an audible difference between a solid laminate, a crushed material, and a potentially delaminated area. 90010 90020 90003 Is this repair worth the effort? 90005 90017 90009 Once the extent of the damage and the type of material is known, you should determine whether the part in question should be repaired or whether you’re better off replacing it.If you’ve discovered the manufacturer’s specifications while you were identifying the necessary materials, check whether the damaged area is too large to be repaired. If no information can be reviewed, we recommend that you make a quick estimate of the materials and labor time needed for the repair. Compare this figure to the price of a new part. Typically if you can achieve savings of at least 50 percent, you’ve met the cut-off to warrant proceeding with the repair. 90010 90020 90007 Removing the damaged material and preparing the surface 90008 90017 90003 Removing Damaged Material 90005 90017 90009 Assuming you’ve already inspected the damaged area and marked it with a contrasting marker, you’re ready to begin removing damaged material.When a part is broken or crushed, it can be difficult to realign the pieces because frayed fibers tend to «hang up» on one another. In order to maximize the strength of your repair, you will want to identify the sequence and orientation of the material as it is removed layer by layer. To help with this, use a saw blade to cut along the length of cracks or tears. This will relieve the stress on solid laminates, often allowing them to return to their original shape with little or no force. Parts constructed with a sandwich core material tend to pancake and mushroom, further complicating realignment.A router is excellent for removing damaged core material without disturbing intact face skins. 90010 90009 When removing damaged material, try to remove as little material as possible, so the scope of the repair does not grow larger than necessary. Be sure, however, to remove enough material to leave yourself with a solid laminate, which is necessary for a good repair. As you are removing damaged material, periodically stop and conduct another coin tap test. This will allow you to ensure you have removed all damaged material, and you should continue grinding or cutting away until all damaged material is removed.90010 90020 90003 Support the part and prepare the surface 90005 90017 90009 After you’ve removed the damaged material, support the part so nothing is distorted during the repair process. Sometimes this is as simple as affixing a few strips of 2-inch wide masking tape, other times it is as elaborate as a custom made clamping structure. Generally speaking, high-performance parts have tighter tolerances and will require a more precise support system. Once you’ve got the part supported, proceed with preparing the bonding surface.As mentioned above, this typically involves grinding or sanding a taper or steps in the material around the damage. This is the critical step for functional repairs, but it is also often overlooked or abused. Take your time and ensure your repair is performed correctly. 90010 90009 If a taper is to be used, measure the depth of the valley and calculate how far sanding must extend to achieve the desired ratio. Use your contrasting marker to mark the outer edge of your taper and begin sanding inward toward the valley.Be sure to remove material slowly so that the taper progresses evenly. As you expose each layer, write down the fabric type and orientation so that you can replace it in the same way. 90010 90009 When step sanding, the initial calculation is even more precise. For example, assuming the damage is circular, two inches in diameter and there are five plies in the laminate, mark concentric circles expanding one-half inch per ply from the edge of the innermost circle. The final diameter of the prepared area will be seven inches.Begin sanding in the center until the deepest layer is exposed. Step out one-half inch and sand down to the second deepest layer and so on, until all five steps are prepared. A right angle grinder offers the best feel and control for this delicate procedure. 90010 90009 With either method, for personal safety and cleanliness, we recommend that you tape the hose of a shop vacuum to the work surface so that dust can be removed while grinding is taking place. Additionally, be sure that you wear a respirator and if possible protective clothing as this is a very messy process and you want to be as protected as possible.When sanding is complete, the whole surface must be cleaned thoroughly. Vacuum any remaining dust and then wipe the surface thoroughly with a solvent rag. Acetone is usually sufficient for removing oil, grease, dust, wax or other surface contaminants which could potentially interfere with your repair’s adhesion. 90010 90020 90020 90003 Helpful Products 90005 90007 Laminate the fiberglass repair patch 90008 90017 90003 Prepare your composite patch materials 90005 90017 90009 The first step to laminating the repair patch is pre-cutting your patch materials to fit the repair.This includes pre-cutting the core material and all reinforcement plies to fit within the taper you’ve prepared as you’ve readied the surface. If your part features a sandwich core material, cut the core first to fill the deepest hole. Note that some core materials, such as Nomex® Honeycomb, have their own orientation which needs to be aligned in the part. Be sure to check this for both sandwich core and reinforcement fabrics, consulting the list that was made during the preparation process so that each reinforcement ply is cut to fit in the proper orientation.Cut each ply so that it fits precisely into the area of ​​the taper or into the step that was prepared for it. Modern repairs are made ply-by-ply, so the smallest piece is intended to go first, into the bottom of the valley. Stack the reinforcements near where they will be used, with the first layer to be placed in the bonding area on top of the pile. 90010 90020 90003 Measure, mix, and apply your resin 90005 90017 90009 Once your patch materials are prepared, pre-weigh the reinforcement schedule.You should target a 50:50 fiber to resin ratio for your repair, so once you have weighed your reinforcements, measure out the same weight of resin. Add catalyst or hardener and mix the resin as instructed. 90010 90009 Once you’ve measured and mixed your resin, start by pre-wetting the entire bonding area with resin. This will allow you to build a film of resin across the entire bonding area, maximizing the physical bond. Next you can begin saturating each ply of reinforcement before it is placed onto the part.Work on a sheet of plastic so the fabric can be easily lifted from the table once it’s ready. A flexible rubber squeegee is the best tool for spreading resin evenly through fabric and removing any excess resin which may be present. Place each layer of reinforcement into its spot on the repair, ensuring proper orientation. 90142 Photo credit IStock Photo. 90143 90010 90009 Stop every few layers to compact and debulk the patch as much as possible. The number of layers you can apply between debulking varies with the fabric weight and weave you are using, but typically you should debulk every 3-5 layers.A squeegee or fiberglass roller works well for this. Continue stacking the repair plies until all the fabric that was removed has been replaced. A final surfacing layer can then be added to cover the entire area. Plan on compacting the final repair patch as densely as possible while the resin is curing. The vacuum bagging technique is the most uniform method, but squeegees, rollers, or other clamping pressure will work adequately. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for curing the resin. If a two-sided repair has been planned, preparation for the opposite side can begin once the first patch has been fully cured, generally 48 hours.90010 90020 90020 90003 Helpful Products 90005 90007 Inspect the repair 90008 90017 90003 How to inspect a composite repair 90005 90017 90009 Before you put your repaired part back into service, you need to inspect your repair. Use the coin tap method to inspect the repair after it has fully cured. The entire structure should resonate with the same solid sound. For more peace-of-mind or more critical parts, non-destructive load testing can also be implemented at this stage.This consists of stressing the part up to its expected service limit, but not beyond. If the part fails prematurely, even if the failure occurs away from your repair, it should be discarded. For more critical structures, a testing laboratory or specialized equipment may be necessary before sign-off. 90010 90009 If your part passes its inspection, you’re ready to proceed with the cosmetic repair. 90010 90020 90003 Steps for Cosmetic Repairs 90005 90017 90009 A part’s outer cosmetic finish is designed to hide and protect the structural reinforcement below, while also being aesthetically pleasing.It is this surface that most people will look at and judge the whole structure. Even slight damage like scratches and gouges will mar the finished appearance. Worse, these often create a direct path into the structural layers, causing even larger problems. Cosmetic blisters are a problem which, left untreated, can turn entire boat hulls into sponges. 90010 90009 The cosmetic composite repair sequence is similar to the structural sequence, but fairing and filling compounds and / or gel coat replaces the reinforcing material.Surface preparation is still the most important aspect of a long-lasting repair. Finish sanding and polishing present an additional step, but time invested on that step can result in a truly professional composite repair. Many people fear tackling cosmetic work because they assume it requires expensive spray equipment for satisfactory results. While equipment is important, proper material selection is the key to positive results. 90010 90009 In this section we will provide guidelines for cosmetic composite repairs, including fiberglass crack repair, fiberglass gel coat repair, and composite repair finishing.This will be broken down into 5 steps, which are similar to those required for structural repairs: 90010 90017 90022 Inspect, Measure and Identify. 90027 90022 Removing damaged material and preparing the surface 90027 90022 Mix and apply filler 90027 90022 Polish the repair area 90027 90020 90009 Now let’s dive into each of these in more detail. 90010 90020 90020 90007 Inspect, Measure and Identify 90008 90017 90003 How to inspect cosmetic damage 90005 90017 90009 Inspection of cosmetic damage is just as important as it is with structural damage.There are four main categories for cosmetic composite damage, and you may find one or all of these types of damage depending on what your part has been through. The categories are as follows: 90010 90017 90009 • 90029 Gouge 90030 A gouge is a long, deep depression in the surface, severe enough to require filler and a surfrace coat for repair. Gouges are typically caused by rough handling, glancing impacts, or improper padding. 90010 90009 • 90029 Blisters 90030 Blisters are bulges appearing on the surface of a part.It is typically caused by liquid or gas that has gotten into the substrate, forcing the skin away from the glass. 90010 90009 • 90029 Scratches 90030 Scratches are similar to a gouge, but not deep enough to require filler. Scratches are typically able to be repair without the need for filler. 90010 90009 • 90029 Crazing 90030 Craze cracks are hairline fractures that do not go through the thickness of the part, sometimes they do not even go through the thickness of the surface coat.Crazing is typically caused by either over-stressing of the part, thermal issues, or stress between or across the layers. 90010 90020 90020 90003 How to measure the scope of your composite repair 90005 90017 90009 Once you understand what type of damage you have, we recommend that you use a 90216 contrasting marker 90217 to outline the boundary of the damage. Note that gouges often leave undercut areas of unsupported gel coat which at first will appear to be fine.However, if you press on them with a blunt tool, they will easily crack away. It is critical that all damaged areas are fully identified so they can be prepared correctly in the next procedure. Once you have your areas identified and marked, determine the approximate surface area that requires repair. 90010 90020 90003 How to identify composite repair materials 90005 90017 90009 After you’ve successfully identified the size and scale of the cosmetic damage, you should be able to approximate how much repair material is required.Gouges and Blisters will require both filler and gel coat, while scratches and crazing can typically be repaired with gel coat alone. If your part was originally made with polyester resin, polyester filling compounds and gel coat are suitable for the repair. If you are unsure, we also offer epoxy fillers as well as Duratec® Surfacing Primer which will offer a surface that either epoxy or polyester can bond to. 90010 90020 90020 90003 Helpful Products 90005 90229 90230 90231 90232 Item 90233 90232 Description 90233 90236 90237 90238 90230 90240 90029 Fairing and Filling Compound 90030 90243 90240 These are used to fill in deeper scratches and damage.Make sure to match your compound to the resin you used for the repair 90243 90240 90243 90238 90230 90240 90029 Gel Coats 90030 90243 90240 Gel coats come in a variety of colors to help match the original color of the part you are repairing. 90243 90240 90243 90238 90230 90240 90029 Duratec Surfacing Primer 90030 90243 90240 Duratec Surfacing Primer allows you to create a surface on your part that Epoxy or Polyester can better adhere to 90243 90240 90243 90238 90269 90007 Removing the damaged material and preparing the surface 90008 90017 90003 Removing the damaged material 90005 90017 90009 For both gouges and blisters, you will need to be sure that unsupported surface material is removed.As mentioned previously, this can be accomplished by pressing on them with a blunt tool. Once unsupported material has been removed, wipe the surface with acetone and a rag to remove any wax, oil or grease which might contaminate the repair. 90010 90009 When the surface has dried, tape off the area surrounding the damage. This will keep sanding scratches to non-damaged areas to a minimum. Proceed by chipping out all loose material with a utility knife and then use 40-grit sandpaper to bevel the edges to a taper.Even thin cracks will have to be «opened up» before material can be added to fill them. Blisters will have to be completely exposed at this time. While you are expanding the damaged area, be ensure that the remaining laminate is solid and dry. If the laminate is not solid and dry, you may have additional structural repairs to complete prior to finishing your cosmetic repair. 90010 90020 90003 Prepare the surface 90005 90017 90009 After you’ve removed the damaged material and opened up the cracks, use a medium grit sand paper to sand slightly into the surrounding area.This will give you the ability to feather your repair into the undamaged surface. After you’ve finished sanding the surface, wipe down the surface with acetone one final time to remove dust and anything else that may disrupt adhesion. 90010 90020 90020 90003 Helpful Products 90005 90229 90230 90231 90232 Item 90233 90232 Description 90233 90236 90237 90238 90230 90240 90029 Fillers 90030 90243 90240 When fixing deeper gouges in your part, milled fibers are mixed with resin to create structural putty for the repairs.90243 90240 90243 90238 90230 90240 90029 Acetone 90030 90243 90240 Acetone is a popular solvent that is used to remove contaminates from the repair area, preventing potential complications 90243 90240 90243 90238 90230 90240 90029 PVA 90030 90243 90240 PVA, or Polyvinyl alcohol, can be sprayed onto the surface of the repair area in order to give you a tack-free, sandable cure 90243 90240 90243 90238 90230 90240 90029 Sandpaper 90030 90243 90240 Sanding the repair area allows you to bevel the edges of the repair area to a taper, making the repair process easier 90243 90240 90243 90238 90269 90007 Mix and apply filler 90008 90017 90003 Filling shallow gel coat scratches and crazing 90005 90017 90009 Shallow scratches can be directly filled with color matched gel coat rather than a filling compound.Be sure that you match your gel coat to a sanded and polished portion of the original, rather than the overall faded color. Your repair may stand out at first, but everything will fade to the same color in about a month. When using gel coat to fill a scratch, use a small brush to dab in the gel coat. Be sure it is higher than the surrounding surface so that it can be sanded flush. Spray a light coat of PVA over the repair for a tack-free, sandable cure. 90010 90020 90003 Filling compound for deeper scratches, gouges and blisters 90005 90017 90009 Deeper gouges will require structural repair putty to replace the missing material before the finish coat of gel coat is applied.Resin mixed with 1/32 inch milled glass fibers is an excellent structural putty. We also offer a variety of both polyester and epoxy-based fairing and filling compounds. Use a squeegee to spread your selected filler into the bottom of the gouge. Keep this filler slightly below the surrounding surface if gel coat is the intended topcoat. If painting, the filler can be level with the surface since paint adds little thickness. When filling blisters, such as in a fiberglass boat hull repair, be sure to use vinyl ester resin with your milled glass fibers to make your putty.This will add additional corrosion protection to these weakened areas. 90010 90009 If your cosmetic repair is following a structural repair, it may be necessary to level the structural patch with the solid laminate. Both grinding and filling may be necessary to accomplish this. Grind all high spots until they are flush with the rest of the surface, unless this will compromise the structural strength of the patch. Use filler to level any low spots. If grinding can not take place for structural reasons, fillers can be mildly added to smooth irregularities and sanded to a smooth feather, but the patch will then always be visible.For marine repairs, use the 1/32 inch milled glass putty filler as described previously. Other structures can usually be filled with standard fillers or by mixing talc and a resin, unless otherwise specified. Continue adding filler and sanding until the surface is perfectly flush. 90010 90009 Epoxy repairs are quite stable once they are cured, but polyester repairs should be heated slightly before final finishing. Polyester resin in the repair patch and in standard body filler often continues to shrink for some time when exposed to heat.This can be avoided if you use one of our non-shrink polyester fillers, but otherwise simply place the project out in the sun for a few days or set up a heat lamp. If a lamp is used, however, do not place the part too close or leave it for too long. You are trying to «force» the filler to shrink prior to final sanding and do not want to distort your part. Once you’ve sanded to the perfect contour, your part is then stabilized against future heat problems. 90010 90020 90020 90007 Mix and apply the color-matched top coat 90008 90017 90003 For a gel coat finish 90005 90017 90009 If gel coat is the intended top coat, we would always recommend a sprayed application.We sell a variety of spray guns for the various sizes you might encounter on a repair, from a full-sized Gel Coat Cup Gun, down to our Preval Sprayer which can be used for the smallest repair. All of the gel coats we sell are formulated for application via spray gun, and this application method provides for the best surface finish. Specifically for repairs, we recommend you mix your gel coat with Duratec® Hi-Gloss Additive. This additive will allow for an open-air cure, thin your gel coat, and reduce orange peel.This means you do not need to add wax that would require additional labor, your gel coat will be easier to spray, and you will have less sanding and polishing to finish your repair. For below-the-waterline repairs on marine projects it is recommended that you use a surfacing agent like PVA or Styrene Wax to ensure a thorough cure. Wax is excellent for large, hard-to-reach areas, but it can cloud clear gel coats. PVA is best used for spot repairs, or where access is easy while the gel coat is still wet.90010 90009 Gel coat will need to be sanded prior to final buffing. Use a hard rubber sanding block and start with 400-grit wet / dry paper to level the gel coat. Focus the sanding effort only on the high spots until everything is flush. Then switch to a foam sanding pad and finer sandpaper for the perfect finish. Be sure to change the water each time you move to a finer-grit sand paper so the dust particles from the coarser paper do not continue to cut the surface. 90010 90020 90003 For a paint finish 90005 90017 90009 If paint is your top coat, a surfacing primer is worth applying underneath.The primer will hid the fine irregularities that may still exist while also sealing the patch. For most repairs, Duratec® Surfacing Primer is the best material for the task. It has a high heat distortion temperature, which further protects already stabilized patches from shrinkage. Most paint systems will stick to cured epoxy, so be sure to check your paint for primer recommendations prior to use. 90010 90020 90020 90003 Helpful Products 90005 90007 Polish the repair area 90008 90017 90003 How to finish a composite repair 90005 90017 90009 The last step of a professional composite repair is buffing and polishing.Our # 1102 and # 1103 Mold Polishes are prefect for use with either polyester and epoxy patches or gel coat finishes. For polishing a paint finish, you will need only # 1103, our Step 2 compound. These compounds will quickly remove the fine scratches left by 600-1000 grit paper while also removing overspray and some of the halo effect commonly left around spot repairs. The Step 2 polish will give your repair the high luster you want for your final shine. 90010 90020 90020 90007 What about SMC? How do I repair SMC? 90008 90017 90009 Sheet molded compound (SMC) is a composite material that is frequently used in the automotive, industrial, and personal watercraft market.SMC poses unique repair problems, so we will discuss it briefly. 90010 90009 90029 First, it’s important to recognize SMC as different from other types of FRP composites so that the proper repair can be performed. 90030 Parts made with SMC are typically produced in compression molds, causing them to be smooth on both the inside and outside-typically the first clue to identifying them. Next, SMC parts do not have an outer gel coat, rather they are typically color molded and sometimes painted.Finally, when the paint is sanded from SMC, short coarse fibers are exposed and the dust that is generated is dryer and more powdery than other composites. These hints will make it easier to identify SMC. 90010 90009 90029 Next, you need to select the correct resin. 90030 While SMC is a polyester-based material, it can not be repaired with polyester resin. This is due to there being a mold release agent present throughout the entire SMC part. Unlike conventionally molded parts, where release agents are applied to the mold surface, SMC is compounded with a release agent dispersed within the resin mix for faster processing.This means that as the damage is sanded to prepare a good bonding surface, fresh release agent is exposed. Polyester resin products do not offer a strong enough physical bond to adhere to this surface. Because of this, SMC should only be repaired using epoxy-based resins, fillers, and adhesives. 90010 90009 90029 How do I finish an SMC repair? 90030 Most SMC repairs will be painted, and only catalyzed type paint systems should be used. 90010 90020 90007 Summary 90008 90017 90009 Composites are a growing category, gaining larger acceptance in all types of modern vehicles, structures, and recreational equipment.The more they are used, the more they will begin to fatigue and break; when the parts break, they do not all need to be replaced. By following these procedures, you can be confident enough to embark on simple repair projects. With a little practice, you can expand into more difficult tasks. This article is intended to help get anyone started. Whether you are working up the courage to embark on a fiberglass tub repair, a pool repair, or auto body repair, we this article can give you the fiberglass repair tips needed to get started.Practice will hone and improve your skill, but following these simple guidelines will allow you to achieve a positive result the first time. 90010 90009 In closing, be sure to remember these few keys to a successful repair. 90010 90017 90022 90029 Start Smart 90030: inspect the damage thoroughly, mark the damage clearly, identify what material the original part was made from, and decide if the repair makes sense. 90027 90022 90029 Preparation is key 90030: The number one area that dictates the success of a fiberglass repair is the removal of damaged materials and proper preparation of the bonding surface.90027 90022 90029 Plan the repair 90030: Make your structural repairs ply-by-ply have your materials pre-cut, and use the appropriate resin. For cosmetic repairs, have the appropriate materials on hand and do not make more work for yourself than necessary. 90027 90022 90029 Inspect and finish 90030: After you’ve made a structural repair, be sure that you inspect the part prior to putting it back into service. After you’ve made a cosmetic finish, spend the extra time to make sure it shines.90027 90020 90434 90020.90000 How to Fiberglass Like a Pro 90001 90002 Fiberglass, as a term, is really a misnomer. Glass fiber is one of the many materials that can be used along with resin (plastic) to create a strong and light composite structure. Those materials include glass-fiber (of course), cloth (cotton or man-made), carbon-fiber, non-woven glass or carbon mat, coir (a coconut fiber), modal (beech tree fiber), bamboo, and even hemp fiber. 90003 90002 In truth what most people call fiberglass is properly referred to as Fiber Reinforced Plastic (FRP).It is a 90005 composite material 90006, much like Carbon Fiber Reinforced Plastic (CFRP) so popular today, but FRP predates carbon fiber by at least seventy years. 90003 90002 One of the earliest uses of FRP was by the United States military in making helmet liners. (See picture at lower right for a World War II liner) 90003 90002 After the war returning GIs began experimenting with the material in the form of car bodies and boat hulls. Sailboats were some of the first items built with this material and a few years later powered watercraft.Because so little was known about the strength of FRP in those years most of those items were «overbuilt.» Boat hulls and car bodies made in the 50s and 60s are still around today almost indestructible in their strength. 90003 90002 90005 Ideal Hobby Material 90006 90015 In many ways it is an ideal hobbyist material. With a bit of patience it is fairly easy to use with most of your effort going into preparation if not actual creation of the item. No special tools are required. In fact I recommend using old food containers to mix the resin in and purchasing or using cheap bristle paintbrushes, plastic trowels, and / or wooden dowel for applying the resin.90003 90002 90005 Not Much Dexterity Required 90015 90006 There is not that much dexterity required. If you can lay a sheet of fabric out and remove all of the wrinkles you are halfway there. If you can lay on a thick paint-like liquid without leaving behind any bubbles you are one hundred percent of the way there. It is really pretty easy. 90003 90002 The only other «ingredient» is patience while waiting for the resin to harden. 90003 90002 90005 Uses 90006 90015 FRP can be used to make auto body repairs, boat repairs, or even to create new objects that have not existed before.It is also possible to use FRP to create molds for other FRP objects. Some examples of past FRP use include Eames bucket chairs, lamp-shades, decorative partitions, green house walls, and door panels just to name a few. 90003 90002 If you’ve ever had or sat in an Eames bucket-style chair you know how strong and light they are. 90003 90002 90005 Strength 90006 90015 Fiber reinforced plastic, by some estimates, is six times stronger than steel for the same weight in materials. It is strong enough, in fact, for use in fiberglass swimming pools (water is quite heavy) and even fiberglass buildings.90003.90000 Carbon Fiber, Dupont KEVLAR and Fiberglass 90001 90002 Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, and Kevlar®: Making the Right Choice 90003 90004 90005 Photo credit IStock Photo. 90006 The physical properties of composites are fiber dominant. This means that when the resin and fiber are combined, their performance remains most like the individual fiber properties. Test data shows that the fibrous reinforcement is the component carrying the majority of the load. For this reason, fabric selection is critical when designing composite structures.90007 90004 Begin the process by determining the type of reinforcement needed in the project. The average fabricator can choose from three common reinforcements: fiberglass, carbon fiber, and Kevlar®. Fiberglass tends to be the all-purpose choice, while carbon fiber offers high stiffness and Kevlar®, high abrasion resistance. Our revised «Fundamentals of Fiberglass» white paper includes more fabric selection information for your reference. Customers requiring specific testing information should consult our laminate comparison table.This table should help you select the proper material when the stress load of your parts is known in advance. Keep in mind that fabric types may be combined in the laminate forming a hybrid lay-up with the benefits of more than one type of material. 90007 90004 Once the family of fabric has been determined, select the weight and weave style which suits the demands of the job. The lighter the ounce-weight of the fabric, the easier it will be to drape over highly contoured surfaces. Lightweights also use less resin so the entire laminate remains lighter.As fabrics become heavier, they become less flexible. The medium weights retain enough flexibility to drape over most contours and they contribute significantly to the strength of the part (6, 7.5-, and 10-ounce fabrics are our most popular). They are very economical and produce strong and lightweight parts used in automotive, marine, and industrial applications. Woven roving is the heaviest reinforcement and is typically used in boat building and mold construction. 90007 90004 The way the fabric is woven is considered its pattern or style.Choose from three common weave styles: plain, satin, and twill. Plain-weave styles are the least expensive and least pliable, but they hold together well when cut. The frequent over / under crossing of the threads reduces the strength of the plain weaves, although they are still adequate for all but the highest performance applications. 90007 90004 Satin and twill weaves are highly pliable and stronger than plain weaves. In a satin weave, one filling yarn floats over three to seven other warp threads before being stitched under another warp fiber.Threads run straighter much longer in this loosely woven type, maintaining the theoretical strengths of the fiber. Twill weaves offer a compromise between satin and plain styles, as well as an often desirable herringbone cosmetic finish. 90007 90016 90017 Tech Tip: 90018 90004 To increase the pliability of any fabric, cut it off the roll on a bias of 45 degrees. Even the coarsest fabric will drape better over contours when cut this way. 90007 90021 90004 Fiberglass is the foundation of the composites industry.It’s been used in many composites applications since the 1950’s and its physical properties are pretty well understood. Fiberglass is lightweight, has moderate tensile and compressive strength and is tolerant of both damage and cyclical loading, as well as being easy to handle. 90007 90004 Fiberglass is the most widely used out of any composite material available. This is mainly due to its relative low cost, and moderate physical properties. Fiberglass is perfect for every day projects and parts that are not expect to need the added strength and durability of the higher priced fabrics.90007 90016 90017 Tech Tip: 90018 90004 To maximize strength properties of the fiberglass, it should be used with an epoxy resin, and can be cured using standard lamination techniques (no special tools or methods are required). It is ideally suited for applications in the auto, marine, and aerospace industries, and is often used for sporting goods. 90007 90017 Example Fiberglass Products 90018 90016 90034 90035 90036 90037 Item 90038 90037 Description 90038 90041 90042 90043 90035 90045 90046 4 oz Fiberglass Fabric 90047 90048 90045 This 4-ounce plain weave fiberglass fabric is a popular selection for use as a surface fabric, with enough body to easily be handled.It will provide a uniform strength in both horizontal and vertical directions. This fabric comes in 50 «width. 90048 90045 90048 90043 90035 90045 90046 7-1 / 2 oz Fiberglass Fabric 90047 90048 90045 One of the most popular fiberglass fabrics in the industry, the 7-1 / 2 ounce fabric is a favorite for waterproofing and protecting various marine applications, like boats and personal watercraft. This fabric comes in 38 «and 50» widths.90048 90045 90048 90043 90035 90045 90046 Style 7781 E-Glass 90047 90048 90045 Style 7781 is a satin weave fabric, which are frequently used for aerospace and structural applications, offering excellent strength and surfacing characteristics. This fabric comes in a 38 «and 50» widths. 90048 90045 90048 90043 90074 90021 90021 90002 Kevlar® Reinforcements 90003 90016 90004 Kevlar® was one of the first high-strength synthetic fibers to gain acceptance in the fiber-reinforced plastic (FRP) industry.Composites-grade Kevlar® is lightweight, has excellent specific tensile strength, and is touted for being highly impact and abrasion resistant. Common applications include lightweight boat hulls like kayaks and canoes, aircraft fuselage panels, and pressure vessels. Kevlar® should be used with an epoxy or vinyl ester resin. 90007 90004 Kevlar® can be difficult to cut, sand, and machine, and is not suited for applications requiring compressive strength. 90007 90021 90016 90016 90017 Tech Tip: 90018 90004 Use a separate pair of scissors to cut Kevlar® because glass fabrics wear scissors at a different cutting angle than Kevlar®.The same pair of scissors can be used to cut both glass and graphite. 90007 90017 Example Kevlar Products 90018 90034 90035 90036 90037 Item 90038 90037 Description 90038 90041 90042 90043 90035 90045 90046 Kevlar Twill Weave Fabric 90047 90048 90045 This Kevlar Fabric is ideal for impact resistant applications that call for excellent specific tensile strength and minimum weight.The twill weave pattern for improved drapability and cosmetics. This fabric comes in a 50 «width. 90048 90045 90048 90043 90035 90045 90046 Kevlar Plain Weave Fabric 90047 90048 90045 A popular Kevlar Fabric, the Kevlar Plain weave will offer more uniform properties when compared to the twill weave fabric. It is a great choice for projects requiring good stiffness, light weight and simple surfacing characteristics.This fabric comes in a 50 «width. 90048 90045 90048 90043 90035 90045 90046 Kevlar Carbon Fiber Hybrid 90047 90048 90045 A mixture of the best in both Kevlar and Carbon Fiber, this fabric combines the properties of the two fibers in each layer to deliver high strength-to-weight ratio, high conformability, impact resistance, abrasion resistance, dimensional stability, and fatigue resistance . 90048 90045 90048 90043 90074 90021 90021 90002 Carbon Fiber Reinforcements 90003 90016 90004 Graphite fibers contain up to 95% carbon and yield the highest ultimate tensile strength in the FRP industry.That’s the force required to pull both ends of any length until it breaks. In fact, they boast the greatest compressive strength and flexural, or bend, strength in the industry, as well. When processed, these fibers combine to create carbon fiber reinforcement, like fabric, tow, and sleeve. These reinforcements deliver the highest strength- and stiffness-for-weight in the industry — more than any other common reinforcement and even most traditional building materials. Carbon fiber also delivers desirable sleek, black cosmetics.90007 90004 Carbon fiber is generally more expensive than other reinforcements. And, once you reach the ultimate strength of carbon fiber, there is no yield: it will fail suddenly and snap, or splinter. 90007 90021 90016 90016 90017 Tech Tip: 90018 90004 To maximize strength properties of the carbon, it should be used with an epoxy resin, and can be cured using standard lamination techniques (no special tools or methods are required).It is ideally suited for applications in the auto, marine, and aerospace industries, and is often used for sporting goods. 90007 90017 Example Carbon Fiber Products 90018 90021 90016 90034 90035 90036 90037 Item 90038 90037 Description 90038 90041 90042 90043 90035 90045 90046 3k, Plain Weave 90047 90048 90045 For lightweight, aerodynamic parts, this plain weave carbon fiber is a commonly selected style, delivering uniform strength in both vertical and horizontal directions.This plain weave is carried in 50 «width. 90048 90045 90048 90043 90035 90045 90046 3k, 2 x 2 Twill Weave 90047 90048 90045 Our single most popular carbon fiber fabric, with a signature appearance that is highly desirable for modern composite parts. Twill Weave offers greater conformability and a slight edge in strength, when compared to plain weave counterparts. Twill weave is carried in 50 «and 60» widths.90048 90045 90048 90043 90035 90045 90046 1k, Plain Weave 90047 90048 90045 This fabric is often used in the most demanding applications, which all for maximum strengh and stiffness, and where minimum weight justifies the added cost. The 1k Plain Weave carbon fiber is carried in 42 «width. 90048 90045 90048 90043 90074 90021 90021 .