Наш корреспондент восстанавливает в глухой деревне старинный дом своих предков — Российская газета

Жители деревни Пустой Ярославль в 30 километрах от Владимира — народ упрямый. Не бросили родной очаг ни во время монголо-татарского ига, ни в конце 1980-х, когда здесь хотели устроить танковый полигон, ни сейчас, когда бездорожье отсекло деревню от цивилизации.

Пару лет назад потомки, и я среди них, решили реставрировать в Пустом Ярославле дедовский Дом. Сразу решили — никаких сайдингов и пластиковых окон.

Надо спасать старика!

Мой прадед Николай Зарайский. Фото: из личного архива

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Дикие камни

Мой прадед Николай Зарайский родился в этом Доме в 1888 году, когда фамильному гнезду было лет 30 от роду. Кирпич, говорят, выжигали сами — будто бы заводик был в соседнем селе Петраково. Стройматериал — отменный. Кирпич и сейчас идет в дело. Цементных фундаментов в ту пору не делали, толстые стены полтора века опирались на огромные валуны, называемые здесь «дикарями».

Еще немного — и дом вновь расцветет. Фото: Артем Гордеев

Покумекав, мы опоясали стены бетонным фундаментом с арматурой поверху и начали заливать цементный раствор под стены. Но технология двадцать первого века не выдержала испытания временем. Этим летом случился обвал. К счастью, обошлось без серьезных последствий, работы продолжились.

Деревенский дом — это счастье! Фото: Артем Гордеев

Дома, как известно, стены помогают.

Традиция латать Дом стала семейной — в прошлом веке наши тут не раз перебирали стены, укрепляли провалы, постоянно что-то перепланировали и переделывали. Братья, дядья и разные родственники — вот это был подряд!

И я, столкнувшись с раствором, кирпичами и кубатурой, быстро понял: на самом деле здесь укрепляются не только стены, но и семья.

На каждом деревенском доме висела такая памятка. Из этого дома на пожар несли топор. Пожарный инвентарь был расписан по каждому дому в деревне. Фото: Артем Гордеев

Собрались, поработали, посидели потом за столом. Вместе.

А какие за столом рассказывали легенды… О том, как кочевники, опустошившие Ярославль, и здесь не оставили камня на камне. Как выходили крестьяне на ремонт дороги в лаптях и опорках. Как пахали и сеяли, как ходили на жнитво, едва поднималось солнце. И как угощали гостей сладкими пирогами с щавелем — это удивительное кушанье особенно удавалось местным хозяйкам в русской печи.

Еще немного — и дом вновь расцветет. Фото: Артем Гордеев

Старые доски

Сейчас русских печей в деревне почти не осталось. Нашу тоже пришлось разобрать, потому что стояла не на фундаменте, а на половых досках. Но недорогую (дорогую сердцу!) внутреннюю обстановку надо будет в Доме обязательно воссоздать: сохранились железные кровати, комод и круглый стол, за которым собиралась семья. На стенах изнутри до сих пор старинные доски — и они обязательно пойдут в дело.

Этими досками изба была обшита, когда холодным ноябрем 1927 года тут появилась на свет моя бабушка. Она — главная рассказчица про Дом и семью.

Ремонт и огород — в Пустом Ярославле всегда есть чем заняться. Фото: Артем Гордеев

Писатель Владимир Солоухин в романе «Черные доски» описывает, как, очищая от поздних наслоений, открывал на закопченных и залепленных мухами, в паутине иконах древнее письмо. И с бабушкиными рассказами так же. Их много, наслаиваются друг на друга, тянут одна другую — и открывают яркие крупицы. То, как мама мыла ее с братьями-сестрами в той самой русской печке, как папанька привез из Москвы самовар, как пережили войну с мешком гречихи, стоявшем в темном углу…

Так оживают доски и стены.

Старые доски. Фото: Артем Гордеев

А вместе с ними — найденные во время стройки подковы, старинный замок, прялка, кочедык, коромысло. Многие и значение слов-то таких не знают. Поэтому в Доме будет устроен семейный музей, куда смогут приходить все желающие. Чтобы увидеть и, может быть, сделать что-то подобное у себя.

Огород и ремонт. Фото: Артем Гордеев

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Черная грязь

Непросто доехать до Пустого Ярославля. Четыре километра грунтовой дороги во время дождей превращаются в скользкий и жирный чернозем. Это проблема давняя… В «Материалах для оценки земель Владимирской губернии» за 1897 год со слов крестьян-пустоярославцев записано, что здесь «земля после дождя лубенеет, затем сильно растрескивается». Местные и сегодня, как в старину, каждый год строят сюда дорогу, и ее так же регулярно смывает после сильных дождей.

Замок и ножницы, найденные во время ремонта. Фото: Артем Гордеев

Мы даже решили продвигать в медиапространстве образ Пустого Ярославля, как Родины русского бездорожья. Но Дом все равно не бросим.

Он словно машина времени. Только оказавшись в этих четырех стенах, ощущаешь, что такое история семьи. В Доме рождались и умирали, плакали и смеялись, провожали и встречали. И пусть прадед не встретит меня на завалинке перед домом, как на старой черно-белой фотографии, где они с домом как будто поддерживают друг друга. Зато мне теперь тоже есть кому подставить плечо.

ДОМАШНИЙ АРХИВ

«Бабушкины сказки» про дом

Валентина и Виктор Локаловы, мои бабушка и отец, возле дома. Начало 1970-х. Фото: из личного архива

Мы издали сказки тиражом 50 экземпляров к 90-летию Валентины Николаевны Локаловой.

Мама нас парила в печке — бани не было. Брат Костя говорит: «Мам, выпусти нас, нечем дышать». Она: «Да вы еще, дети, мало посидели». Костя опять: «Ну, мам!..» Она: «Ну, вылазьте». Только вылезли, а солома, на которой сидели, и вспыхнула. Вот мама все и плакала: «Ой, дети, что я было сделала… Больше вас там ни разу мыть не буду!»

Сестра Ольга мне рассказывала: когда я совсем маленькая была, она со мной нянчилась. Сделала она мне на печке такой закуток из валенок — и довольна! Мама с папанькой в избу заходят, никак не поймут, где я. А Ольга скачет, смеется: «А я ее спрятала! А я ее спрятала!» Полезли на печку, откопали меня из-под валенок…

Помню, с троюродной сестрой Шурой зашли к ним домой — за стенкой они жили. Она достала откуда-то кусок хлеба. Зеленый. Не то что зачерствелый, а плесневый… Как она начала его есть! До сих пор перед глазами… Как они голодно жили! У нас так все-таки не было.

Мама умерла, когда я в школу пошла. Как-то она мне приснилась. Записку мне передала. Держу ее в руке крепко. И чувствую, что сплю, но вот чувство какое-то радостное — проснусь и прочитаю. Глаза открываю, кулак разжимаю… А в нем не записка, а палец мой большой зажат. Жалко мне стало — что бы мне во сне-то записку не прочитать?..

Если вы тоже восстанавливаете старинный дом, усадьбу, храм и хотите рассказать «Родине» свою историю, пишите нам на [email protected]

Здесь укрепляются не только стены. Фото: Артем Гордеев

90000 How to maintain and repair an old timber frame 90001 90002 Old timber frame buildings and internal timber beams are often admired for their beauty and period character, but if not properly maintained and repaired, they are vulnerable to decay and damage. This may spoil both their appearance and, more importantly, their ability to support the loads they were designed to carry. 90003 90002 Even where no timber is visible, it is likely to be present. Ancient timber frames may be hidden behind plasters and renders and, in many buildings, timber lintels are concealed in walls above windows and doors.90003 90002 When problems are suspected or repairs or alterations planned, you should seek the advice of a surveyor or structural engineer who has a good understanding of buildings of a similar age and type. 90003 90002 Use this guide to find out how to maintain and repair an old timber frame. And, if you’re renovating a period property, check out our essential guide. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90013 Exposed internal timber beams are a desirable original feature 90014 90003 90002 (Image credit: Darren Chung) 90003 90018 Common problems with timber frames 90019 90020 90021 Dampness that may be causing timbers to rot.90022 90021 Signs of fungal attack. 90022 90021 Signs of beetle infestation such as powder or ‘frass’. 90022 90021 Structural failure in lintels above doors and windows. 90022 90021 Movement in timber frames and failing joints. 90022 90021 Sagging beams that might be overloaded. 90022 90021 Timbers that have been cut through during alterations. 90022 90035 90002 90003 90002 90013 This timber frame building is undergoing major repairs 90014 90003 90002 (Image credit: Roger Hunt) 90003 90018 Checking timber frames for damage 90019 90002 90047 Decayed timber 90048 90003 90002 Decay is the biggest enemy of timber and results from moisture , which leads to rot and beetle infestation.Always try to identify the source of dampness, such as blocked gutters or downpipes, inappropriate external cement renders or high ground levels. Deal with these issues rather than just tackling the symptoms. 90003 90002 Use our guide to find out how to repair and replace old timber beams. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90013 Timber lintels are common in many old buildings and may show signs of decay from moisture 90014 90003 90002 (Image credit: Roger Hunt) 90003 90002 90047 Action: 90048 90003 90020 90021 Test timber by prodding with a penknife — sound timber will resist penetration.90022 90021 Trace the source of moisture and rectify the problem. 90022 90021 Always deal with the cause not the symptoms. 90022 90021 Ensure the timber is allowed to dry out. Chemical treatment is generally unnecessary to dry timber. 90022 90021 Monitor affected areas to ensure the issue has been rectified. 90022 90035 90002 90047 Beetle infestation 90048 90003 90002 Signs of beetle attack are fairly common in old timber, although not necessarily a serious concern. In many cases the insects are no longer active so no action is required.90003 90002 Active beetle infestation is often revealed by fine dust or ‘frass’ where the insects have emerged through ‘exit’ holes. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90013 Damage to timber beam caused by beetle infestation 90014 90003 90002 (Image credit: Roger Hunt) 90003 90002 90047 Action: 90048 90003 90020 90021 Check the exit holes made by the beetles. If the walls are dark and dirty, the attack is likely to be historic. Clean, light-coloured holes are probably more recent. 90022 90021 Look for fine dust or ‘frass’ where the insects have emerged through the holes as this may indicate an active infestation.90022 90021 If the timber is dry, chemical treatment should be unnecessary. 90022 90035 90002 90003 90002 90013 Making repairs to a timber frame building. Traditional wattle and daub can be seen between the timbers 90014 90003 90002 (Image credit: Roger Hunt) 90003 90018 How to repair damaged timber 90019 90002 Approach repairs with caution and consider the structural issues involved but never assume that timber needs replacing. 90003 90002 Medieval beams were frequently much larger than necessary so even where there is some loss through decay or timber infestation, the timber may still be capable of carrying the structural load.90003 90002 Where damp problems exist, rafter feet and the ends of timbers built into brick or stonework often become saturated and rotten. 90003 90002 Wherever possible, avoid replacing timbers and instead make repairs so the least possible amount of original wood is lost. 90003 90002 One of the simplest, most cost-effective repair methods to rotten timbers is to use a metal strap. A strap can be made up by a local blacksmith and is simply bolted into place to hold decayed elements together.This has the benefit of being reversible and causing the least possible disturbance to the surrounding fabric of the building. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90013 A hand-forged metal strap using a ‘D’ section bar is an honest, effective and reversible way of repairing a timber frame 90014 90003 90002 (Image credit: Roger Hunt) 90003 90002 Where it is necessary to cut out timber and make repairs, a good carpenter with an understanding of old buildings should be able to scarf in new sections using traditional jointing methods.90003 90002 A major problem with timbers is that electricians and plumbers ‘notch’ into the top of joists in order to lay cables or pipes, dramatically weakening them. Where this has happened, joists can usually be strengthened with metal straps or by fitting additional joists alongside. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90013 A scarf joint repair, where new wood has been introduced to shore up the existing timber 90014 90003 90002 (Image credit: Roger Hunt) 90003 90018 Minimising damage to timber frames 90019 90002 In the past, the structural integrity of timber was often assessed and tidied up by ‘defrassing’, which involves hacking off beetle-infested or rotten timber.This is a highly destructive process that radically alters its appearance and results in the loss of the original surface. 90003 90002 Where an assessment is required to ascertain the structural integrity of a beam, non-destructive techniques are now available. At its simplest, this involves drilling into the timber with a fine drill bit but specialist companies can undertake more accurate testing. 90003 90002 Bear in mind that timber treatment relying on the use of chemicals will only deal with the symptoms of the problem, not the cause.Chemical treatment is generally unnecessary if the source of the dampness has been removed and the timber has dried out because further decay will be limited if not halted completely. 90003 90018 Stripping paint from timber beams 90019 90002 Beams have frequently been painted in the past but think carefully before attempting to strip them. The work can be destructive and is invariably time consuming, labour intensive and may not produce the desired result. Avoid using abrasive methods, including wire brushes.90003 90002 90047 Tips for stripping paint: 90048 90003 90020 90021 Protect surrounding areas. 90022 90021 Test a small inconspicuous area first. 90022 90021 Apply chemical paint removers and scrape away paint. Avoid digging into the timber. 90022 90021 Use peel away poultice systems to remove multiple paint layers. 90022 90021 Hot air guns may be effective, but be aware of the risk of fire. Never use a blow torch. 90022 90021 Never shot blast or sand beams as this is likely to destroy the surface of the timber as well as its original shape and texture.90022 90021 If very dark, consider lightening beams with traditional casein distemper. 90022 90035 90002 90003 90002 90013 Where timber beams have been painted, it may be possible to remove it, but consider carefully as it is a laborious task that may not yield the desired results 90014 90003 90002 (Image credit: Nicholas Yarsley) 90003 90018 Cleaning timber frames 90019 90002 Beams can look ‘tired’ but remember, generally they have aged over many hundreds of years so have an attractive surface patina that is quickly lost by over-zealous cleaning or stripping.90003 90002 90047 Tips for cleaning beams: 90048 90003 90020 90021 Remove dirt and dust gently with a soft brush, damp cloth or vacuum cleaner, using the soft brush attachment. 90022 90021 If a light sheen is desired, apply a thin coat of beeswax polish. 90022 90021 Avoid using linseed oil as it stays tacky, attracting dirt. 90022 90021 Rather than staining new timber, let it darken and colour naturally so that it blends in. 90022 90035 90018 More on restoring period homes: 90019 .90000 How to repair old brickwork 90001 90002 Original brickwork is worth cherishing. During the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian eras, millions of bricks were produced and used in many different styles, enriching the diversity of our architectural heritage. 90003 90002 If you are renovating an old house, or simply carrying out some seasonal maintenance, a basic understanding of brickwork will help you get underneath a property’s skin and assess any repairs that are needed. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90009 Ivy and other climbing plants might add character to a house but, over time, they will damage the brickwork 90010 90003 90002 (Image credit: Brent Darby) 90003 90014 Do I need to maintain my brickwork? 90015 90002 Although apparently durable and solid, brickwork tends to fail if mistreated.Repairs made using inappropriate cement mortars, poorly maintained rainwater goods that result in water spilling down the face of the wall, and coatings of ‘plastic’ paints and sealants are frequently the cause of damage to bricks. 90003 90018 more from period living 90019 90002 90003 90002 90009 Period Living 90010 is the UK’s best-selling period homes magazine. Get inspiration, ideas and advice straight to your door every month with a subscription. 90003 90002 Cracking and other problems may also result from 90027 movement in the structure of the building itself 90028.90003 90002 Until around 1919 року, brick walls were generally solid and built using weak and permeable mortars, plasters and renders based on lime, or sometimes earth or clay. While these materials absorb moisture, they also allow for easy evaporation. 90003 90002 The water vapour is dispersed externally due to the drying effect of the wind and the sun, and internally as the result of draughts entering via gaps in the building’s fabric and the traditional use of large open fires that draw air through.90003 90002 Providing buildings constructed in this way are properly maintained, they remain essentially dry and in equilibrium and, even though some of the materials are relatively soft, the brickwork can endure for centuries. 90003 90014 Brickwork damage warning signs 90015 90002 Brickwork forms a vital structural element of a home, so any failure can result in damage to the fabric of the building, or even its collapse. 90003 90002 Old walls can have been mistreated or neglected, inappropriate maintenance may have been carried out, or the walls might have been patched or had openings cut into them so could be storing up unseen problems.90003 90002 90043 What to look for: 90044 90003 90046 90047 Crumbling (spalling) bricks 90048 90047 Loose, cracked or missing pointing 90048 90047 Water spilling onto brickwork from gutters 90048 90047 Internal or external damp patches 90048 90047 The use of inappropriate mortars, paints and sealants for maintenance work 90048 90047 Cracks through the brickwork 90048 90047 Walls that bulge 90048 90061 90002 90003 90002 90009 This brickwork has been repointed using modern cement mortar, causing the surface of the brick to blow apart and crumble, or ‘spall’ 90010 90003 90014 Repairing damaged bricks 90015 90002 Bricks that have spalled tend to make the penetration of moisture more likely, look unsightly and may have structural implications for the wall.There are a number of options available to rectify the problem. 90003 90002 90043 Action: 90044 90003 90046 90047 Consult a good bricklayer accustomed to working with old buildings. 90048 90047 Carefully cut out and turn the brick round to hide the decay. 90048 90047 Make up the face of the damaged brick with a tinted lime mortar. 90048 90047 Cut out and replace severely damaged bricks. 90048 90047 Use replacement bricks that match as closely as possible in size, durability, colour and texture and should be laid in the same way.Exact replication is very difficult but there are a number of good suppliers producing new handmade bricks at reasonable prices. 90048 90047 Leave new bricks and mortar to blend in naturally over time. 90048 90047 Be cautious about the use of secondhand salvaged bricks — they may be underfired and unsuitable for external work, or can sometimes be damaged. 90048 90061 90014 Fixing pointing 90015 90002 Mortar joints that need repointing allow water to settle on the exposed top ledges of the bricks and penetrate into the structure.90003 90002 90043 Action: 90044 90003 90046 90047 Rake out loose, soft mortar using an old screwdriver to a depth of at least 10mm. 90048 90047 Repoint with a suitable lime mortar. 90048 90047 Repointing requires skill and patience — ensure the person doing the work has both. 90048 90047 Trial a small area with repointing before undertaking a whole wall. 90048 90047 Never use an angle grinder to remove pointing. 90048 90061 90002 Areas that have been repointed with modern cement mortar, rather than traditional lime mortar, can trap moisture, resulting in dampness within the building’s structure.90003 90002 Instead of the moisture escaping harmlessly through the mortar joints, it moves to the face of the brick. In cold weather, frost freezes the water and the brick’s surface blows apart and crumbles or ‘spalls’. 90003 90002 Consider whether removing the pointing is in the best interest of the building. If more damage to the brick face is likely, and the pointing is not causing damp or other problems, it may be best to leave well alone. 90003 90002 If in any doubt, seek advice from the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB) or a conservation builder.If it is best to remove it, use a narrow plugging chisel and small lump hammer to remove hard cement pointing. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90009 The production of bricks became more mechanised from the 19th century, so there are many brickwork homes from the Victorian era, often with decorative details 90010 90003 90002 (Image credit: Darren Chung) 90003 90014 Removing efflorescence from bricks 90015 90002 White deposits, known as efflorescence, appear on brickwork when water containing dissolved salts is brought to the surface.Although unsightly, efflorescence is not usually harmful to brickwork. 90003 90046 90047 Identify why the brickwork is becoming wet and rectify the problem. 90048 90047 Brush or vacuum off the efflorescence. 90048 90047 Never use water to wash off salts as this will make the problem worse. 90048 90061 90014 Cracked or bulging brickwork 90015 90002 If brickwork is cracked or distorted it is important to find out the cause. It is not necessarily a reason for alarm as many old buildings settle naturally over time and lime mortar allows for movement.90003 90046 90047 Look for obvious causes, such as rotten timber lintels above doors and windows, new unsupported openings, leaking drains and tree root damage. 90048 90047 Consult a structural engineer. 90048 90061 90002 90003 90002 90009 Brickwork was often decorative in the Victorian era, and arched windows were sometimes seen 90010 90003 90002 (Image credit: Darren Chung) 90003 90014 Removing paint and cleaning brickwork 90015 90002 Cleaning brickwork may harm the face of the bricks and hasten decay.Where cleaning is necessary due to graffiti, a severe build up of dirt, or because an inappropriate paint finish is trapping moisture, consult a specialist and trial the suggested method on a small area first. 90003 90002 Abrasive techniques are likely to remove the protective fired surface of the brick. Chemical cleaning can work but may cause staining and care needs to be taken not to saturate the brickwork when washing off. Water-based methods may result in efflorescence or lead to moisture penetrating the wall 90003 90014 Styles of brickwork 90015 90002 The vast range of available brick colours and textures add character to a property.A high iron content turns bricks reddish when fired, while lime makes them white or yellow. These qualities, plus the regional nature of bricks, are reflected in their names — London stocks, Cambridge whites, Staffordshire blues, Accrington bloods and Leicester reds, are just a few. 90003 90002 Some decorative bricks are moulded or carved to provide detail or reliefs. Others, often above window and door openings, are ‘rubbed’ and ‘gauged’ so that they fit tightly together with only very thin mortar joints in between.90003 90002 A technique called ‘tuck pointing’, popular between the late-17th and early-20th centuries, imitates fine gauged work by indenting the mortar with a thin line made of lime putty and silver sand to give the outward impression of a narrow joint . 90003 90002 90003 90002 90009 Flemish bonding with alternating blue headers and red stretchers 90010 90003 90014 A short history of bricks 90015 90002 90009 90043 Douglas Kent, technical and research director at the 90044 90010 90009 90043 Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings 90044 90010 90009 90043 looks into the past of this ubiquitous building material 90044 90010 90003 90002 Bricks may be made from various materials, but are most commonly of clay, which normally contains a small amount of lime or iron oxide.Traditionally, they were made by hand in timber moulds. 90003 90002 Brickwork was constructed using lime or earth mortar; unlike modern cement products, this allowed the building fabric to ‘breathe’, which is important with old, solid walls to control dampness. 90003 90002 The pointing profile (finish of the mortar joints), bonding (arrangement of bricks) and brick size and colour have varied over time. These features can help, therefore, to date buildings. 90003 90002 Brickwork was little used in this country until the late Middle Ages.By Tudor times, however, it rivalled stone in popularity. Bricks tended to be irregular in shape and size, but the shapes could also be sophisticated, as seen in the twisted chimneys characteristic of this era. Walls were often decorated with diamond patterns of different coloured bricks ( ‘diaperwork’). 90003 90002 The more consistent shape and size of Georgian bricks reflects advances in manufacturing methods. Grey stock bricks and yellow London stocks were fashionable at the end of this period.Soft, rubbed bricks could be laid with very fine joints for high-quality work. A less expensive alternative was to create the illusion of thin joints using a technique called ‘tuck pointing’. 90003 90002 Brick production became mechanised from the 19th century and by the end of World War I, modern cement mortar, rather than lime, was widely employed for constructing brickwork. 90003 90014 More tips on making repairs to your home 90015 .90000 Expert guide to plaster in old homes 90001 90002 Looking for advice on how to deal with plaster in old homes? If you’re the owner of a period property and are planning a renovation — whether of the whole house or a single room — you’ll likely have lots of questions. Well, we’re here to answer them. 90003 90002 Original plaster contributes immeasurably to the qualities of an old building. Unlike modern cement-based products and gypsum plasters, which are hard, inflexible and non-breathable, traditional lime and clay formulas have a soft, characterful appearance, offer a degree of flexibility and are breathable.90003 90002 The breathability of wall and ceiling finishes is a very important issue in period homes. Old brick, stone and ancient wattle and daub walls rely on moisture being able to evaporate through them. This helps to prevent damp and condensation. 90003 90002 Most problems with old plasterwork can be easily fixed, but sadly, the wrong techniques and inappropriate modern materials are all too frequently used for repairs. This can mean moisture is sealed in, resulting in damage and decay. 90003 90002 Find out more about renovating a house in our specialist guide.Do not miss our decorating hub page for tons more advice, too. 90003 90012 What type of plaster does my home have? 90013 90014 90015 90016 Lime plaster 90017 is the traditional finish for houses pre-1919 року, but may have been used up until the 1950s when plasterboard and gypsum took over. See our guide to lime plaster to find out more. 90018 90015 A 90016 pinkish colour 90017 is likely to indicate a 90016 plaster bound with gypsum 90017. 90018 90015 An 90016 off-white 90017 colour is typical of a lime plaster.90018 90015 An 90016 earthy colour 90017 suggests an earth binder. 90018 90015 If your old house has been replastered with modern materials, or if you have damp walls (find out more in our guide), it might be worth replacing with lime plaster. 90018 90035 90002 90003 90002 90039 A pigmented clay plaster by 90040 90039 Clayworks 90040 90039 gives a matt, mellow feel to walls. A range of 27 natural colours are available 90040 90003 90012 Look out for historic markings 90013 90002 Original plasterwork may contain fascinating evidence relating to the building’s history, such as traces of historic decorative schemes, as well as superstitious candle smoke marks and apotropaic symbols intended to ward off evil spirits.90003 90002 Look out for wall paintings in pre-Georgian houses. Early plaster layers may be finished with decorative wall paintings, now often hidden behind multiple layers of paint and later plaster. 90003 90002 If you find anything of note, do call in a specialist to investigate. 90003 90012 How traditional plaster is made 90013 90056 More from Period Living 90057 90002 90003 90002 (Image credit: Period Living) 90003 90002 90039 Period Living 90040 is the UK’s best-selling period homes magazine.Get inspiration, ideas and advice straight to your door every month with a subscription. 90003 90002 Old plasters are generally made with lime and sand, with animal hair added as a binder to provide extra strength and reduce shrinking and cracking. Sometimes in high-status work it is gauged with gypsum. Plaster may also be clay based, with animal dung and a lime binder. 90003 90002 Traditional plasters are applied directly to solid backings, such as masonry or cob (unfired earth), or flexible supports, including timber laths or reed.90003 90002 The aggregates found in old finishes vary according to the materials that were available locally. There might, therefore, be a high proportion of very coarse or very fine particles, the use of which would not comply with modern standards for sands and aggregates. 90003 90002 Most aggregates are ‘as raised’ (i.e. dug out of the ground on or near the site). They include silica sand, other mineral-based sands and crushed stone. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90039 Mixing animal hair into the mix helps bind it together and make it stronger 90040 90003 90012 When to replaster walls and ceilings 90013 90002 Plasterwork should last indefinitely, but when deterioration does occur it can take various forms: 90003 90014 90015 cracking 90018 90015 loose plaster or delaminating coats 90018 90015 staining 90018 90015 crumbling or flaking 90018 90015 mechanical damage and missing areas 90018 90035 90002 Deterioration often looks worse than it is and repair rather than replacement is often possible.90003 90002 Any replacement, where justified, should normally comprise the same material and number of coats. Adequate hair or other reinforcement is crucial on flexible backgrounds. 90003 90002 Always try to avoid the use of plasterboard. Unlike traditional plaster finishes it is flat and can look out of place in a period building. This is especially true with old ceilings. 90003 90002 Generally ceilings are relatively easy to replaster. Where necessary laths can be replaced — these are best fixed with screws to avoid vibrations.Lime plaster is then applied over them and matched in with the surrounding surface. 90003 90002 Our guide to how to repair plaster covers everything from cracks and bulges to loose plaster and damp in greater detail. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90039 ‘Scratching’ the surface of the base coat will help the next coat bond properly 90040 90003 90012 How much does plastering cost? 90013 90014 90015 Hiring a specialist plasterer with experience in dealing with traditional finishes on period homes is more expensive than standard plasterings.90018 90015 For a standard job using gypsum-based finishes, expect to pay between 90016 £ 450 £ 750 90017 for walls in an average room, and 90016 £ 200 £ 350 90017 for the ceiling. 90018 90015 The price can 90016 double 90017 for lime or specialist clay coatings. 90018 90035 90012 How to plaster an old home with lime 90013 90002 Employ an experienced lime plasterer. Lots of plasterers will say they can do it, but most of them can not. Request a reference from a recent job. Alternatively, ask an on-site trainer to work alongside a team of plasterers who are keen to learn.Your lime supplier should be able to recommend a local trainer. 90003 90002 Take advantage of technical advice from lime suppliers when you order your plaster. 90003 90014 90015 You will need to apply 90016 two to three coats 90017, depending on how flat you want the finished work. Finest quality uses three coats, but generally two coats will suffice. 90018 90015 If you’re 90016 on a strict budget 90017 use a reed mat instead of riven laths on the ceiling — that is, if you decide to lime plaster that too.This will save several thousands of pounds. Fix it to the bottom of the joists using laths and screws. 90018 90015 The 90016 mix for the first coat 90017, or ‘scratch coat’, should be one part lime putty to three parts sharp, well-graded sand, mixed with plenty of animal hair. This is called ‘haired coarse stuff’. 90018 90015 For a smooth finish, apply 90016 a setting coat 90017 of one part lime to two parts fine sand, called ‘fine stuff’. This can also be bought ready mixed. 90018 90015 Unless your plasterer advises you otherwise, buy your plaster 90016 ready mixed 90017 by the tonne and 90016 delivered to site 90017.90018 90015 90016 Do not leave bags of haired plaster sitting around 90017 for more than four weeks — the hair will start to rot due to the alkalinity of the lime. 90018 90035 90002 90039 Additional words by Douglas Kent and Marianne Suhr 90040 90003 90012 Looking for more advice to help you tackle old home renovations? 90013 .